Tunnels & Trolls


(This is an abbreviation of the full Tunnels & Trolls Rules)

The Tunnels & Trolls solitaire games provide the means for you to play the part of an adventurous hero in mystical, magical times. Such an adventurer seeks wealth, fame and glory in ancient citadels filled with monsters and treasures galore. To play this game, you will need some rough paper, a pencil or pen, and a number of six-sided dice (at least three). You might find index cards useful, and there may be occasions where you are asked to use an ordinary deck of cards.



Each adventurer is defined by “Prime Attributes”: Strength, Intelligence, Luck, Constitution, Dexterity, Charisma, and Speed. They define the character's basic innate abilities. Other details, like the character's name, sex, hair and eye colour, kindred, character type, round a character out, but the “Prime Attributes” are the factors that make the game work.

Roll three six-sided dice, add up the scores and write them next to the prime attributes: use pencil because these numbers could change later. Repeat the roll for each attribute listed.

STRENGTH (ST) is the ability to exert force – lifting, shoving, etc. Strength limits your choice of weapons and tells you how much you can carry. If ST ever falls to 0 or below your character is dead.

INTELLIGENCE (IQ) measures a character's ability to reason, solve problems, and remember.

LUCK (LK) measures how blind chance works for or against your character. Luck affects combat results, and is usually the attribute affecting “Saving Rolls” (explained in its own section).

CONSTITUTION (CON) measures a character's health. Combat damage is subtracted from Constitution. If CON reaches 0, the character is dead.

DEXTERITY (DEX) refers to both manual dexterity and physical agility. Marksmanship is defined by Dexterity.

CHARISMA (CHR) measures personal attractiveness and leadership ability. It is not just a measure of good looks, but most often it is treated as such.

SPEED (SPD) is how fleet of foot and how responsive a character is. Speed is the only thing standing between many adventurers and the monsters pursuing them.

WEIGHT POSSIBLE is 100 times Strength. It measures how many “weight units” a character can haul around. (If Mantaro the Inimitable has a ST of 15, he can carry 1500 weight units.) Ten weight units weigh one pound.


The next thing you'll want to decide is whether or not you want your character to be a human or to be one of the other ancient races which inhabit this magical world. It is recommended that you start out with a human, but especially in some of the more difficult adventures, you may want to create a character from one of the tougher kindreds until you develop a more experienced human. The Peters-McAllister Chart For Creating Man-like Characters, below, creates some of the other humanoid kindred.

ELVES IQ and DEX × 3/2, CHR × 2, CON × 2/3.
All other attributes × 1.
DWARVESST and CON × 2, CHR × 2/3.
All other attributes × 1.
HOBBITSST × ½, CON × 2, DEX × 3/2.
All other attributes × 1.

As you can see, no single race is unconditionally better than any other race. Humans are often the best all-round choice, and there is never any question about whether they are the kind of adventurer accepted into a scenario.


The final decision needed to create your character is what kind of background and training he or she has had. This background determines how the character makes a living and a great deal more. A character must fall within one of the two categories listed below. Each category has advantages and disadvantages, strengths and weaknesses. Read through them all, and then decide. (A recommendation: if this is the first time you have played T & T, try a human warrior to begin with.)

WARRIOR: A warrior understands force first, subtlety last. Warriors are trained in using weapons and armour to their best advantage, and get twice the normal listed protection from armour and shields they use. While warriors can use most magical artifacts they find, warriors cannot cast any magic (like being colour-blind, it is simply beyond their abilities). If a character's ST is greater than his IQ or LK, that character could make a good warrior.

WIZARD: Wizards (also called magicians, mages, magic-users, and sorcerers) are those individuals that had the innate ability and received the training to control the psi-forces that power the arcane world of magic. Only youngsters with a reasonably good Intelligence (IQ of 10 or better) and decent Dexterity (DEX of 8 or better) will be trained by the elder wizards of the all-pervasive Wizard's Guild. All the Level 1 spells (detailed later) are the basic heritage of wizard characters. Spells beyond that level must be purchased from the Wizard's Guild or discovered while adventuring. Wizards can use a magic staff to reserve their energies while casting magic.

Because wizards spent their youth learning magic, they are inept at using weapons. Only small weapons like daggers, and appropriate weapons like quarterstaves may be used by wizards. Wizards do get combat adds, the same as any other character type, and may wear what armour they choose although they get only the armour's listed value in protection. If IQ is greater than either ST or LK, the character could make a good wizard. Don't forget a wizard must have an IQ of 10 or more, and a DEX of 8 or more to begin with.

There are two other character types: rogues and wizard warriors (they can be found in the full Tunnels & Trolls Rule Book).


You have determined virtually everything about your character. Now it is time to buy the provisions and equipment the character will need on his or her adventures.

Characters probably have a few possessions before that first big adventure, but nothing really suitable for a serious adventurer. A character scrapes up all the money possible and starts from scratch. To determine the number of gold coins your character starts out with, roll 3 dice and multiply the result by 10 (you will get between 30 and 180 gold pieces, abbreviated g.p.). Some things in the equipment lists you will not be able to purchase immediately, but after even one adventure, the character may be able to purchase more and better equipment with the rewards of success.

The basic unit of exchange is the gold piece, a simple gold coin. Prices are all listed in gold pieces. There are also silver and copper coins. One gold piece = 10 silver pieces (s.p.) = 100 copper pieces (c.p.). Every coin, regardless of value, weighs 1 weight unit. This makes the basic unit of weight also equal to a gold piece. Most jewels weigh no more than 1 g.p. (and most less), although large objects like jade statues have no standard weight.

WEAPONS Dice + Adds ST req DEX req Cost Weight Range
*Great Sword 6 + 0 21 18 120 170  
Broadsword 3 + 4 15 10 70 120  
Short Sword 3 + 0 7 3 35 30  
*Falchion 4 + 4 12 13 75 110  
Scimitar 4 + 0 10 11 60 100  
Rapier 3 + 4 10 14 80 20  
*Doublebitted Axe 6 + 3 21 10 140 220  
*Heavy Mace 5 + 2 17 3 120 200  
Bludgeon 3 + 0 5 2 15 50  
*Quarterstaff 2 + 0 2 8 10 50  
Baton - weighted stick 2 + 0 2 1 10 20  
Trident 4 + 3 10 10 60 75 10 yds.
Common Spear 3 + 1 8 8 22 50 40 yds.
Sax (dagger) 2 + 5 7 10 30 25  
Haladie (dagger) 2 + 4 2 4 25 10  
Dirk 2 + 1 1 4 18 16  
          to throw     10     10 yds.
*Crossbow 5 + 0 15 10 250 180 100 yds.
*Medium Longbow 4 + 3 15 15 100 60 140 yds.
*Very light bow 2 + 0 9 15 50 30 60 yds.
Sheaf of 24 arrows       40 10  
Curare (poison):
          3 applications
      100 1  
Curare doubles effectiveness of any edged weapon before combat adds computed. One application lasts 3 combat rounds only.

All weapons have ST and DEX requirements. A character must meet these required minimums to use the weapon. The “Weight” of a weapon is given in weight units – remember Weight Carried. Keep track of the weight of purchases and the weight of any money the character carries.

The column of “Dice + Adds” pertains to the weapons' combat effectiveness. The greater the numbers in these categories, the more deadly the weapon is. Specifics are discussed under “Conducting Combat”. Wizards may not use weapons with more than 2 dice (but any number of adds) in the Dice + Adds column.

The column labelled “Range” states the maximum range for the weapon in missile combat. If there is no listing, the weapon may not be used as a missile. Further discussion of missile combat follows.

An asterisk (*) indicates a weapon that requires two hands for proper use. No second weapon or shield may be used unless the character has more than two hands. Two weapons without asterisks may be used simultaneously IF the user has the ST and DEX requirements for BOTH weapons (e.g. to fight with a dirk in each hand requires a minimum ST of 2 and a DEX of 8).

Warm dry clothing and pack510
Provisions for 1 day
          (food, drink, "matches")
Ordinary torch
          (lasts 10 turns)
1 s.p.10
Hemp rope1 s.p./ft.5/ft.
Calf-high boots1040
Ordinary magic staff
          (may double as quarterstaff.
          If so, weight is 50.)


Armour lasts as long as it is being worn unless something is specifically stated to destroy it. Armour and shields can take “hits” (damage in combat) every time they are hit, protecting the wearer. The total “ST needed” of a character's armour and shield must never exceed their personal ST.     i.e. a person wearing mail (ST needed 12) and carrying a target shield (ST needed 5) requires a minimum ST of 17. However the “ST needed” of the character's weapon is not added to this total; for example, in the case above the character would be able to carry any weapon to a maximum “ST needed” of 17 in addition to his armour and shield. Note that one cannot add to the “complete” suits of armour – the arming doublet and steel cap are for those who cannot afford complete armour.

 Hits takenST neededCostWeight
Complete mail
          (complete body,
          helm, gauntlets)
Complete leather
          (complete body,
          helm, gauntlets)
Arming doublet314075
Steel cap111025
Target shield4535300


You know you'll probably get into a fight when adventuring. But how good a fighter are you? The attributes listed above tell you. The ones important in fighting are ST, LK, and DEX (strength, luck and dexterity). If you are better than average in any of those attributes, you're a better fighter – you hit harder, control your weapon better, or are just more apt to get a lucky shot. Since “average” is between 9 and 12, for each point above 12 in your ST, LK or DEX, you get 1 point added to your “Personal Adds”.

If any of those attributes is below 9, you must subtract 1 point from you personal adds for each point any one of the three attributes is less than 9.

Every weapon gets a certain number of dice to represent the amount of damage it can do. That plus your personal adds reflects how well you fight.

When you get into combat, decide what weapon you'll use. In the adventure itself, your options may be dictated by circumstances found there – follow those instructions. If you have your own weapons available, you can use them. The shortsword gets 3 dice, and the dagger gets 2 dice plus 5 extra “adds”. You can sue both at once if you wish.

When you enter combat, start by rolling the dice for your weapon (3 dice for the sword, 2 for the dagger). Add the pips showing (let's say you get 18 for them both together). Add the weapon's extra adds, if any (the dagger gets 5, the sword, 0). Add all that to your personal adds. (If you have 33 personal adds, your total would be 56.) That result is your hit point total, and it represents your part in a single round of fighting.

Your opponents will fight back, of course. Some fight the way you do, with weapons and adds. When you have to fight such an opponent, you will be told the weapon(s) being used, the CON and personal adds of your foes, and if they are wearing any armour.

However, most monsters have a Monster Rating (MR). This number reflects how well the monster fights. When you're told a monster's MR, check this chart to see how many dice it gets:

Monster RatingNumber of Dice

An easy way to find out how many dice a monster gets is to divide the Monster Rating by 10 (discarding any remainder) , and add 1. At places in the game, you will have to determine what the Monster Rating is, according to the directions given in the text, before determining the number of dice a monster gets. Simply follow the instructions in the text.

Monsters also get “adds” like your personal adds: that number is one-half its Monster Rating, rounded up. When a monster fights, you roll the number of dice indicated on the chart. Add up the spots showing, then add the monster's adds. The result is the monster's hit point total. If you foe fights the way you do, roll dice for his weapon and add the weapon and personal adds noted to get your enemy's hit point total.

After you get your hit point total, and your foe's hit point total, compare the two numbers. The side that had the higher number hurt the side that had the lower number. The difference between the two numbers indicates how badly the loser was hurt.

You may have to fight several opponents at once. If so, add together all the monsters' hit point totals before comparing the grand total with your hit point total.

Follow this chart to conduct simple combat:

  • Pick your weapon(s).
  • Roll the dice indicated, adding the pips:
  • ___________
  • Add weapon adds, if any:
  • ___________
  • Add your personal adds:
  • ___________
              This is your hit point total:___________
  • Does your foe have a Monster Rating or weapons?
  • ___________
  • Roll the dice for its MR or weapon, and total:
  • ___________
  • Add foe's weapon adds, if any:
  • ___________
  • Add half its current MR or its personal adds:
  • ___________
              This is the monster's hit point total:___________
  • Subtract the smaller hit point total from the larger hit
    point total. The result is the possible damage.
  • If you had the larger number, then:
    • Subtract the value of any armour worn by your foe(s).
    • Subtract the damage from your foe's MR or CON.
    • If the result is 0 or below, the monster is dead.
    • If not, use the result as the new MR or CON and continue fighting.
  • If the monster had the larger number, then:
    • Subtract 12 points from the damage for your leather armour, if you're wearing it (it protects you every turn as long as you wear it).
    • Subtract any remaining damage from your CON number. That's an actual wound; you're bleeding.
    • If your CON drops to 0 or below, you're dead. Sorry!
    • If you aren't dead, fight again or run away!
  • If you face armoured opponents (and you might), you will be told how many points their armour is worth, and whether they are warriors. If they are warriors, you have to double the listed protection value, according to what's written in the game text.


    When the text of the game instructs you to “make a saving roll”, you use 2 dice to check your abilities against the hand of fate. The text will tell you on what attribute to make the roll and at what level to make the roll. Once you know the level of the saving roll to be made, follow the chart below:

    The text will tell you what to do if you make or miss a particular saving roll, but generally it's a lot better to make it than to miss!


    When a foe is big and nasty it is often best to try to kill it at a distance. Missile weapons, when they hit the target, can be devastating because the damage done is intercepted by armour alone, the target's Hit Point Total is not subtracted from the damage you have done. An arrow a day will keep the monsters away.

    Hitting the target is the trick. The archer must make a DEX saving roll, with the chart below providing the “To hit” number. Pick the closest target size, cross reference with range and let fly!

    Target SizePointblank
    0-5 yards
    6-50 yds
    51-100 yds
    101 + yds

    There is one more thing that needs to be adjusted when using missile weapons. A character gets to add his DEX personal adds in again. This reflects how important DEX is in missile combat. If your character has 2 adds from his DEX, for the purpose of missile combat he has 4 adds. If he has -2 adds he will, unfortunately, have -4 for missile combat.

    The last detail is this. Just as the target gets no combat roll against your arrow, if you don't kill the target, and it is close enough to attack you in the round you shot it, you will not get a combat roll. So soften them up with arrows at long range, then fight hard with a sword or spear if they get close.


    Wizardly characters use magic in combat and in more ordinary situations. In this game, magic is envisioned as a psi-based conjuration or creation powered by the magician's inner strength. A magician's Strength is depleted when he or she casts magic. This cost is listed following the spell name in The Spell Book in parentheses.

    Wizards may reduce the cost of spell casting by using a magic staff or by gaining experience. A magic staff reduces the cost of casting spell by the same number as the level of the magic-user. Thus, a first Level wizard using a staff may cast any first level spell for one less ST point than that listed.

    As a wizard survives his adventures, he or she becomes more experienced and goes up in levels. However, the magician will still wish to use lower level spells. Because of his greater experience, a higher level mage casts a lower level spell for 1 ST point less for each level that spell is below the caster's level. (A third level magic-user subtracts 2 from the cost of a first level spell.)

    These reductions can be combined. A third level magic-user with a magic staff subtracts three points, and the magician's own proficiency (being higher level than the spell being cast) subtracts two.

    No reduction permits any spell to be cast for less than 1 point. All spells cost a minimum of 1 ST point to cast - there must be something to get the spell started. (The spell Detect Magic is an exception which only requires that the wizard concentrate on detection.)

    Strength expended in spell casting is not lost forever. The magic-user replenishes lost Strength at the rate of 1 ST point per full turn (about 10 minutes). In these solitaires, magicians regain ST at 1 point per numbered paragraph unless instructed otherwise.

    Magic-users can cast only one spell per combat round, and may not fight with weapons during that same round. If a wizard is in close combat and chooses to cast a spell such as a Vorpal Blade, he will have to take the full brunt of his opponent's Hit Point Total because, while casting magic, the mage will have generated no Hit Point Total of his own. Combat spells such as Take That, You Fiend and Blasting Power do create a Hit Point Total. Other spells, such as Oh-Go-Away, divert the foe so no comparison Hit Point Totals is needed (if the spell is successful). A careful reading of the spell available should clarify your options.

    All wizards start with all the Level 1 spells. A mage may only buy more from the Wizards Guild, and only after attaining the appropriate level himself.


    LEVEL 1:

    Requires minimum IQ 10, DEX 8. All beginning wizards know all these spells.

    Detect Magic (0)Detects good and bad magic.
    Lock Tight (1)Locks any door for 3 turns.
    Knock Knock (2)Unlocks locked doors.
    Will-o-the-wisp (1)Lights up finger or staff in lieu of a torch. About 1 candlepower. Lasts 1 turn.
    Oh There It Is (4)Usually detects concealed or invisible things or doors by surrounding them with a purple glow that slowly fades.
    Take That, You Fiend (6)Uses IQ as weapon, inflicting hits equal to caster's IQ. Must be directed at an individual foe. No effect on inanimate objects.
    Vorpal Blade (5)Doubles die roll for swords or daggers for one subsequent combat round.
    Oh-Go-Away (5)Combines total of caster's IQ, LK and CHR to drive away foes with a lower Monster Rating or equivalent attribute total. If spell fails, monster chases magic-user to the exclusion of his or her comrades.

    LEVEL 2:

    Requires minimum IQ 12, DEX 9. Each spell costs 500 g.p. (payable to the Wizards' Guild).

    Omnipotent Eye (5)Provides more information about nature and/or level of magic on persons/objects.
    Hidey Hole (10)Makes user and his companions invisible for 3 turns. (Note: some solos treat this as a Level 1 spell.)
    Cateyes (6)Allows one to see in the dark for 3 turns.
    Glue-You (8)Impedes movement/travel of victim by ½ for 1 turn. In combat this means you get 2 combat rounds to opponent's one.
    Little Feets (8)Rapid travel; doubles speed for 1 turn. In combat you get 2 rounds to opponent's 1.
    Mirage (8)Projects visual, non-auditory image as hallucination. Destroyed by physical contact.
    Poor Baby (2 ST/1 CON)Magical healing of wounds or injuries. Cannot raise CON above original level.
    Whammy (10)Triples die roll for any weapon for 1 subsequent combat round.
    Magic Fangs (1/combat round)Changes belt or staff into small poisonous serpent with MR not greater than caster's CHR. Cannot "communicate" with mage but will obey commands. Lasts as long as mage puts ST into it at time of creation. Does not work on twigs or torches.

    LEVEL 3:

    Requires minimum IQ 14, DEX 10. Cost 1000 g.p. each.

    Curses Foiled (7)Removes evil spells and curses of lower orders.
    Slush Yuck (15)Converts rock to mud/quicksand for 2 turns, up to 1000 cubic feet. Caster may dictate dimensions as desired, but shape must be a regular geometric solid.
    Rock-a-Bye (11)Puts monsters/foes to sleep for 1-6 turns (roll 1 die to determine) if caster's ST, IQ, and CHR total exceed MR (or foe's ST, IQ and CHR total if rated).
    Dis-Spell (11)Negates magic of same or lower orders.
    Blasting Power (8)Throws bolt/fountain of fire at foes. This blast gets same number of dice as user's level number, plus caster's combat adds.
    Freeze Pleeze (8)Throws sheet of ice at foes. Blast gets same number of dice as user's level number, plus caster's combat adds.
    Fly Me (7)Allows user to fly (running speed) 1 turn.
    Healing Feeling (14)Cures any kind of disease.

    LEVEL 4:

    Requires minimum IQ 16, DEX 11. Cost 1500 g.p. each.

    Too-Bad Toxin (7)Cures the effect of any poison and nullifies further effects. Does not heal the wound from weapon/fang that delivered the poison.
    Wink-wing (14)Allows one to transport oneself (only) up to 50' in direction of choice without crossing intervening space.
    Smog (11)Projects cloud of poison gas at goes. If foes breathe, they lose half power or more.
    Dum-Dum (8)Reduces foe's IQ to 3 or, if spell fails for any reason, reduces caster's IQ to 3.
    Double-double (18)Doubles one Prime Attribute for up to 5 turns. When spell wears off, attribute is halved for same number of turns.
    Protective Pentagram (12)Raises a protective barrier 3' in diameter for 2 turns. No weapons or spells penetrate (in or out).
    Upsidaisy (9)Permits caster to levitate and move objects or beings up to caster's own weight for 1 full turn.

    LEVEL 5:

    Requires minimum IQ 18, DEX 12. Cost 2000 g.p. each.

    Mind Pox (39)Causes mental confusion; the victim cannot attack or defend. Lasts 3 turns. Can affect any number of beings up to level of caster.
    Dear God (30)Allows one to ask 3 yes-or-not questions of the Game Master, to be answered truthfully.
    ESP (20)Detects true intent of man or monster.
    Second Sight (25)Allows one to distinguish beween illusion and reality for 1 turn.
    Breaker Breaker (35)Causes any weapon or armour to become so brittle it will shatter at the first impact. Any magic on that weapon or armour will make it immune to the spell.

    LEVEL 6:

    Requires minimum IQ 20, DEX 13. Cost 2500 g.p. each.

    Wall of Fire (26)Puts a sheet of flame up between caster and foes. Will deliver caster's IQ times his level to anyone walking through the wall, unless the person is immune to fire.
    Wall of Ice (26)Places a wall of ice between caster and foes. Will take caster's IQ times his level in hits to breech.
    Wall of Thorns (14)Puts a wall of thorns up between caster and foe. It can be cut or burned down, but anyone walking through it must make a LK saving roll at the caster's level to avoid falling asleep for 1-6 days.
    Wall of Stone (20)Places an impassable wall of stone up between caster and foes. Must be chopped through to avoid.
    Wall of Iron (23)Places a wall of iron between caster and foes. Impassable unless one can melt or warp iron.

    All the walls are immobile and appear within reach of the caster. The walls must be a rectangle or square and cannot exceed 1000 cubic feet. If not dispelled or destroyed it will vanish after a day.

    LEVEL 7:

    Requires minimum IQ 22, DEX 14. Cost 3000 g.p. each.

    Zappathingum (24)Enchants any weapon to 3 times normal effectiveness. Lasts 1-6 hours.

    LEVEL 8:

    Requires minimum IQ 24, DEX 15. Cost 3500 g.p. each.

    Zapparmor (30)Enchants any armour or shield to 3 times normal protection. Lasts 1-6 hours.
    Zombie Zonk (36)Creates zombies from corpses by doubling their ST and CON or MR. Lasts for 5 turns (50 minutes). The zombies die if their master dies.

    LEVEL 9:

    Requires minimum IQ 26, DEX 16. Cost 4000 g.p. each.

    Medusa (30)Turns flesh to unliving stone.
    Death Spell 9 (40)Kills the target if it cannot make a 9th level luck saving roll.

    LEVEL 10:

    Requires minimum IQ 29, DEX 17. Cost 4500 g.p. each.

    Hellbomb Bursts (36)Disintegrates up to 100 cubic feet of anything.

    LEVEL 11:

    Requires minimum IQ 30, DEX 18. Cost 5000 g.p. each.

    Bigger is Better (33)Enlarges any creature. Roll one die and add one. Use that number to multiply the MR or and CON of the creature. The effect lasts for one day.

    There are other spells available to the wizards of the world, but those listed above will allow you to work through the solo adventures the best. For other spells and more detailed descriptions of the spells above, check the Tunnels & Trolls Rule Book.


    Regular turns in Tunnels & Trolls, non-combat paragraphs in the solo adventures, are 10 minutes in length. Combat rounds are 2 minutes in length. Wizards recover one Strength point per 10 minutes, and may cast one spell per Combat Round. It is easy for a wizard to tire himself out very quickly. Warriors may attack once, either hand to hand or with missile weapons, per combat round. Damage to a character's CON is recovered at one point per day unless magic is used to speed the healing process.


    Unlike other solo adventures, Tunnels & Trolls allows characters to grow and pass from one adventure to another. To do that characters earn experience points, also known as adventure points. Adventure points are earned for the following:

    COMBAT: points equal to the MR or totalled IQ, CON and of the vanquished foe.

    SAVING ROLLS: points equal to the dice roll times the level of the roll. (A 2nd level roll where the dice yielded a total of 14 would give the character 28 a.p.'s).

    CASTING MAGIC: points equal to the actual strength used in spell casting.

    GM AWARDS: Successfully completing a mission or achieving a similar feat will be worth points and the GM (Game Master) will state what the award is. The minimum a.p.'s for any adventure in the solos will be 100 a.p.'s unless otherwise stated in the solo.

    All characters start at 1st level and, as they collect a.p.'s, progress up in levels. Below are the totals of a.p.'s needed to reach the first 11 levels:

    21,000Points needed to reach these levels are cumulative.

    Once a character has garnered enough points to pass up to a new level he can modify one of his "prime attributes". Below are the options he may use to modify his attributes.

    A.Add the new level number to either ST or CON, or ½ of level number to both.
    B.Add ½ the number to IQ or DEX or CHR (exclusive, not inclusive).
    C.Add 2× the number to Luck.
    All fractions round down.

    By upping the attributes, through encounters in the solo adventures and level raises, your character will have a whole host of spells and weapons made available to him. Money will allow him to buy armour or those weapons and spells, making him better able to face the trials and tribulations of the solo adventures. Your characters can pass from one solo to the next, earning titles and treasure in a never ending heroic career.

    A Short Table to Randomly Generate Treasure

    (abridged from the T & T Rule Book)

    When you are told to roll on the jewel generation table, start by rolling 1 die to find out how big it is:

    1 or 2:small (5× base value; 1 weight unit)
    3 or 4:average (10× base value; 2 weight units)
    5 or 6:large (20× base value; 4 weight units)

    To find out what kind of gem it is, roll 2 dice:

    2:Emerald (base value 18 gold pieces)
    3:Sapphire (base value 16 gold pieces
    4:Pearl (base value 14 gold pieces)
    5:Topaz (base value 5 gold pieces)
    6:Aquamarine (base value 11 gold pieces)
    7:Amethyst (base value 6 gold pieces)
    8:Opal (base value 8 gold pieces)
    9:Garnet (base value 4 gold pieces)
    10:Jade (base value 12 gold pieces)
    11:Ruby (base value 15 gold pieces)
    12:Diamond (base value 17 gold pieces)

    Multiply the gem's base value by its size multiplier to get the jewel's value, the number of gold pieces it is worth.

    The rules above are condensed from the Tunnels & Trolls Rule Book. The Rule Book itself contains more weapons, spells, character types, character races and other details that will enhance your play. We hope you will enjoy the coming adventures, and we look forward to entertaining your character through the rest of the series.

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